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CRESTOCK TIP #1: AVOIDING JPG ARTIFACTS

Forum » Digital Photography » CRESTOCK TIP #1: AVOIDING JPG ARTIFACTS
joshDK
Århus, Denmark
Posted January 30, 2009 08:52 Report | Quote

One of our most common questions being sent in to the helpdesk is, what are JPG artifacts and why are my images being rejected for this reason?

WHAT ARE JPG ARTIFACTS?

JPG artifacts are areas of distortion in an image, often with the distortions resembling a blocky pattern. JPG artifacts can result from too-much image compression that discards some image data. JPG, as an image format, causes the loss of image quality, especially after editing/saving/ or re-opening JPGs in an image editor. There are several different types of JPG artifacts, although the differences between them are discussable. Also, JPG artifacts can often be mistaken as ISO noise, and the difference between the two distortions are sometimes near indiscernable. 

Artifacts are often most visible around edges, so in people shots, often around the eyelashes or other areas of hair is generally a danger zone for artifacts.

An extreme example of JPG artifact distortion @ 100%

This image displays minor hair JPG artifacts @ 100%. Taken in a studio with a Canon 1ds Mark III. Artifacts can happen even at the best of times.

WORKFLOW FOR AVOIDING JPG ARTIFACTS:

Step 1. Shoot in RAW. Always. Definitely, the first thing to do in avoiding artifacts is to stop shooting in JPG. For wedding photographers or journalists who need a streamlined workflow to deal with a large amount of images quickly, JPG artifacts are maybe not such an issue. However, in stock photography, there is the luxury of dedicating time to images to achieve the highest technical quality.

Step 2. Turn off any in-camera sharpening. Sharpening images will increase artifacts. A very limited amount of sharpening in post can sometimes be recommended though.

Step 3. Never underexpose images too much. Its true that exposures can be adjusted in RAW during post, but, along with it comes the risk of artifacts.

Step 4. Develops RAWs as 8-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image. TIFF is a loss-less and uncompressed format so it is possible to save and re-save without increasing artifacts.

Step 5. Save the final and edited copy of image as a JPG at the highest quality setting. If any further editing of the image is required, refer to the TIFF file and avoid re-opening the JPG.

NOTE: Its recommended to check for artifacts in Photoshop as some image viewers use an interpolated zoom that will not display pixels very accurately, making artifacts hard to discern.

The Crestock team will be available to discuss this further under this forum topic. Look forward to hearing from you.

[Last Modified: 5/28/2009 11:31:01 AM]
uneekgrafix
Chicago, United States
Posted February 12, 2009 00:00 Report | Quote

"Step 4. Develops RAWs as 8-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image. TIFF is a loss-less and uncompressed format so it is possible to save and re-save without increasing artifacts."

Thank you very much for this post.

I have been a graphic designer for the past 9 years and have never used this method of Post on any of my images.  WOW.   May very well be the reason my images keep getting rejected.  I will make this a rule from now on.

Thanks you agian for the insight!

icefront
Sfintu Gheorghe, Romania
Posted February 16, 2009 23:42 Report | Quote

Step 4. Develops RAWs as 8-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image. TIFF is a loss-less and uncompressed format so it is possible to save and re-save without increasing artifacts.

Let me make a little correction here:

Develop RAWs as 16-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image.

You can avoid banding. You will have finer spectrum to adjust curves, levels, hue, saturation, shadow-highlights, blur.

If you thik you're done, convert back to 8 bits, but it's better to store as 16-bit. (When using layers, first flatten the image and then convert to 8-bit) Yes, it's quite larger but tomorrow you may want to make an another adjustment (that you don't see today) and in this case it's very good to have 16-bit color depth.

Remember: 16-bit is not for displaying the image, it's for adjusting.

jeffbanke
Hayward, United States
Posted February 25, 2009 06:31 Report | Quote

I agree 16bit may take a little more horse power in your computer, a little more memory to keep the same throughput, but is a much better post processing system for the resons stated. Save as an 8 bit JPG only when you are COMPLETELY finished with you tweaking.

Step 4. Develops RAWs as 8-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image. TIFF is a loss-less and uncompressed format so it is possible to save and re-save without increasing artifacts.

Let me make a little correction here:

Develop RAWs as 16-bit TIFF files for re-touching any editing on the image.

You can avoid banding. You will have finer spectrum to adjust curves, levels, hue, saturation, shadow-highlights, blur.

If you thik you're done, convert back to 8 bits, but it's better to store as 16-bit. (When using layers, first flatten the image and then convert to 8-bit) Yes, it's quite larger but tomorrow you may want to make an another adjustment (that you don't see today) and in this case it's very good to have 16-bit color depth.

Remember: 16-bit is not for displaying the image, it's for adjusting.

DVMRK
United States
Posted October 21, 2009 19:22 Report | Quote

Thanks for the tips,

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